
Spring 2024 | Central and Southeastern Europe
Austria
Vienna
The old Habsburg capital, still grand and just a little self-important, has at least three months’ worth of things to visit. On this trip, I will focus on visiting some of its excellent museums.
Slovenia
Ljubljana
Few cities are more charming than this place, where the Slavic, Germanic, and Latin worlds come together in remarkable harmony. Its beautiful setting and gorgeous architecture are paired with outstanding food and drink—it’s on my short list of places I fantasize about living in.
Ptuj
Today, Ptuj is a bit off the beaten path, yet it began as an important Roman provincial city. Together with the nearby town of Maribor, it was part of the 2012 European Capital of Culture. I’ve never visited, but I’m looking forward to exploring its vast castle fortress, one of the best preserved in Slovenia.
Croatia
Zagreb
Unlike the better-known Croatian cities on the coast, Zagreb is pure Central Europe in its architecture and atmosphere. It’s a lively place I enjoyed exploring on my previous visit; this time I hope to do more “soaking it in” than focused sight-seeing.
Pula
Another former Roman city (complete with one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters), it’s on my list because it’s the capital of Istria—the rugged peninsula famous for its olive oil, wine, truffles, and local cuisine. I’ve dreamed of visiting this area and am finally making that happen.
Side trips: Bale, Rovinj
Rijeka
A port city near where Istria ends and Dalmatia begins, it was once best known by its Italian name, Fiume—and famous for being the center of a territorial dispute between Italy and Yugoslavia that helped give birth to Fascism.
Zadar
The former capital of Dalmatia, Zadar, was heavily bombed in both WW II and the secession wars of the 1990s. I’ve read that much of its old city has been restored and is now full of particularly good restaurants.
Split
This is a truly unique city, quite literally built within and into the walls of a Roman emperor’s retirement villa. It has some of the best-preserved late Roman architecture anywhere in Europe, and its recently excavated cellars were a filming location for Game of Thrones.
Bosnia-Herzegovina
Mostar
Its Ottoman bridge, Stari Most (“The Old Bridge”), is iconic (you’re probably familiar with it even if you don’t know its name). This graceful span was deliberately shelled by Croatian troops during the Bosnian War and almost obliterated. It’s been rebuilt, and I’ve always longed to see it.
Side trips: Počitelj, Blagaj
Sarajevo
This is one of my favorite places in the world. I visited it last in 2018 and am ridiculously excited to see it again. I love the architecture, the food, and (most of all) its wonderful people, whom I’ve come to admire deeply. This trip, I’m also planning to visit many of the historical sites in the region, using Sarajevo as a home base.
Side trips: Jajce, Travnik, Vranduk, Tešanj, Srebrenik
Montenegro
Kotor
This was a late addition to the trip. When I decided to extend my stay in Sarajevo by a few weeks, I wanted to use some of that time to visit Montenegro for the first time. I’m not entirely sure what to expect, although I’ve heard this coastal city is lovely.
Side trips: Cetinje, Podgorica